Dr. Goodridge Wilson On Our History
Early Settlers Were Attracted to Smyth County’s Rye Valley Rye Valley lies over the mountain to the south of Smyth County. State Route 16, the B. F. Buchanan Highway, coming from the north over Clinch, Brushy, and Walker mountains, passes through Hungry Mother Park, Marion, and Attaway, over another Brushy Mountain, and enters a locality where rye was growing in abundance when the first white men came to this region. That weed is smaller than the cultivated rye but resembles it, and is said to make fairly good horse and cattle food. The pioneers seemed to have liked the plant, perhaps because it grew so well here. Prior to or during the Revolutionary War they gave it its name not only the beautiful valley where the South Fork of Holston starts but also to Rye Bottom on Big Walker Creek, and to Rye Cove in Scott County. The valley is narrow. The high crosses it quickly at a little climbing the steep sides of Iron Mountain and on across Grayson County to North Carolina. The first pioneers who acquired land in Rye Valley appear to have been Joseph and Esther Crockett, enterprising land speculators, who were not husband and wife, but business associates whose names appear together on a number of documents. The late Squire Robert Ward of Sugar Grove, a descendant of one of them, showed me a deed dated in 1753 by which the king of England conveyed the land about the head springs of the South Fork of Holston to Joseph and Esther Crockett. Mr. Ward’s name was included in that grant. His grandfather, a Rev. Crockett, bought it from a James or a Nelson, Joseph and Esther Crockett, or their heirs, had sold the original tract to some families in Virginia and to Nelson families who came from Virginia and they became the first actual settlers in the iron region where three mountain brooks join their waters with those of a number of bold springs in level meadows to form the South Fork of Holston. Two of the brooks, Dickey’s Creek and Cress Creek, come out of Iron Mountain, and the third, Slemp Creek, tumbles into the valley from Brushy Mountain. In this valley meadows a forest of fine sugar maple trees grew. While I was living in Marion back in the 1920s and 30s I would go there sometimes to fish for trout, to visit in some homes, or to conduct a religious service in a public school. At that time two splendid groves, remnants of that ancient maple forest, provided wonderful picnic grounds and ideal places for all-day gatherings as Baptist Association meetings. They gave the community its name, Sugar Grove. Now the groves are gone, and much beauty formerly belonging to this place of many waters faded with the passing of those great trees. Perhaps the first permanent settler in Rye Valley was Jenkins Williams, who settled on land downstream from and immediately adjoining the original Joseph and Esther Crockett survey. When I lived in Marion his descendants in the seventh generation were living on that land. When I went to Marion one of them, a lad in knee pants, lived with his widowed mother across the street from me. He now lives in Richmond and is well known over the state as Robert Williams, executive secretary of the Virginia Education Association, a well-authenticated fact, who made his home here since 1754 when rescuers were trailing marauding Indians and found the dead body of Mrs. Samuel Stalnaker beside a creek, with her infant child crying “Hungry Manny,” they went to warn the family of a settler near the site of Sugar Grove, and left the child with that family. That settler may have been Jenkins Williams. In 1776 John Griffiths came from Pennsylvania and settled in Rye Valley. When I made a sightseeing tour in that section a few weeks ago, B.H. Griffiths of Marion went with me. He was born and grew up with his father’s name in a house that stands on the site of a log house in which the Griffiths settle of 1776 lived. Among other things he showed me some skillful doing masonry work and some lengths of old iron water piping, on a hillside above the South Fork of Holston. These are the remnants of a lead mining and smelting operation conducted there around the turn of the century. An iron working industry was started in Rye Valley early in the pioneer period. Jenkins Williams had a forge on the South Fork in which, among other items, he manufactured barrels for rifles used by Revolutionary War soldiers. A Pierce family engaged in iron working in the valley through successive generations. The Rev. Lewis Wetzel Pierce, a Methodist minister widely known throughout Southwest Virginia as a pastor of churches and as a former agent for the Children’s Home Society of Virginia, is now retired and lives in Bristol. He says that his great-grandfather, Moses Pierce, a Quaker, came from North Carolina and established an iron forge near the mouth of Comers Creek. His grandfather and his father were iron workers at Sugar Grove, He was born on inherited a farm located on the west side of Slemp Creek, which his grandfather bought from Jonathan Slemp. The Slemp’s, Frederick and Jonathan acquired land on the south side of Brushy Mountain in 1804. Mr. Pierce says that Jonathan’s land was on the west side of the mountain between Crockett and Frederick’s on the east side. Frederick stayed and his descendants are still in that section. Jonathan sold his land to Alexander Wilson Pierce and his descendants, Col. Camp, who represented that area in Congress from the 9th Virginia District. The Brushy Mountain land is still called Slemp’s Creek.
